A few weeks ago on a public holiday, I drove 2 hours from my home in Oakland to Point Reyes Lighthouse. I was going there to record the sound of the ocean. I needed to record the ocean here specifically, as close to the lighthouse as possible, on a perfect California summer’s day.
You can’t access the coast from the lighthouse, and you can’t record the ocean from way up high. You’d lose all of the detail and capture all of the wind—and oh boy is there wind. The kind of wind that chills your bones. The kind of wind that makes it difficult to breathe.
Instead, I had to drive to the South Beach car park and walk to the lighthouse along the beach. The walk takes (or took me) a good couple of hours. Why wouldn’t I just record the sound of the ocean from near the car park, you might wonder. I wondered the same, briefly.
The sand was difficult to walk on, even close to the water. The strong gusts of wind battered me just as the strong sun beat down on me. When the dunes dropped away the wind picked up, pelting my skin with sand. Too hot already, I pulled on a sweater to stop the pain.
Aside from a few folks near the car park taking quick snaps before jumping back in their car, I didn’t see another living soul the entire time. The long grass moved with the wind, the Pacific crashed with a force, and my body slumped and stumbled across the loose sand.
The end of the beach—underneath the lighthouse—felt as though it wasn’t getting any closer until suddenly it was right in front of me. I let out an involuntary laugh, and maybe a little whoop. My legs trembled slightly from the uneven ground, but I’d made it.
After drinking some of the water that I should have drank more of along the way, I climbed across the rocks until I found a space that looked comfortable enough to spend a while, and was sheltered enough from the coastal winds to make for a good recording.
When I found my spot, I got comfortable (or, as comfortable as you can get on a jagged rock), popped the binaural microphones into my ears, hit record, and closed my eyes. I stayed like this for 45 minutes, not daring to move in case the mics picked it up.
I heard the ocean like I’d never heard it before. I really heard it. In some ways it felt like the same song repeated hundreds of times. In other ways it felt like listening to an entire album, with no 2 waves sounding the exact same way. It was beautiful. Meditative.
When I opened my eyes, the world felt different to me. I felt different. I felt more connected to the earth and to the ocean and—more than anything—to myself. I’d gone there to capture the sound of the ocean, but I’d received much more than I’d bargained for.
This small adventure is part of my love letter to California. A slow, multi-year project that will weave together sounds, scenes and observations about this beautiful place. I’m starting with Point Reyes Lighthouse because it makes me feel things.
This place, where the land meets the sea, is like paradise to me. It fills me up with the feelings I want more of and rids me, for a moment, of the feelings I’d be happy to let go of. It’s the quality of light, the landscape, and the sound of that wonderful ocean.
A love letter—and indeed, love—requires effort. That’s why I didn’t record the sound of any old ocean. That’s why I didn’t record near the car park. That’s why I walked the ~5 hour out-and-back to sit here, on a rock by the ocean, right underneath the lighthouse.
If you’d like to hear what I heard that day, you can do so in Apple Podcasts and most other popular players. You can also listen on the web. It’s best listened to through headphones and—in my humble opinion—best enjoyed sitting quietly, with your eyes closed, in the sun.